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Make easy biodiesel in your farm or in the garage.

Self made biodiesel processor  out of doors in summer.

It is very  safety to Works out of doors with methanol and KOH

Example 500 litres of raw rape oil in the top tank .

Mix 22% Methanol 110 litres with 4.5 kg KOH in a bottle so no lumps in it. About   6 minuters or more.
Mix methanol and KOH into the 500 litres of raw rape oil from
TäbyPressen. into the top tank
Stir it in 2 hours with the pump..
Wait 2 days.
After already 6 hours you can see the glycerol in the bottom.
Now you have glycerol in the bottom and take away the lower tank.

Change the tank to empty tank

Mix the oil with water 200 litres with the pump and stir it in half an hour.
Wait 1 day

Now you have water and soap in the lower tank .

Change the tank to new empty tank. Stir it with the pump the oil with water once more 200 litres.and stir it in half an hour.

Wait 1 day
now you have water and soap in the lower tank  but not so much soap  as before.

If you wish once more washing.

Wait 1 day.

Take away the lower tank

Now you have a good biodiesel in the top tank. Now is the biodiesel very clear you can read a text of news paper
 through the oil . If you store the biodiesel in a month in an open tank the methanol and KOH evaporate away.

Test of good biodiesel
PH         7.00

Density    0.88

Viscosity the same as diesel oil.


To test viscosities in a self made meter from a used 5-56 spray can.               

Room temp of oil about  +16 to 17 Dg C

1        Take a used 400 ml 5-56  spray can and saw off  the topp.
2        Drill a 2 mm hole in the bottom.

3        Put the spray can  over a sheet of glass.

4      Fill 250 ml of Biodiesel in the 5-56 spray can.

        Usual diesel oil is the same   about 2 minutes and 7 sec.
        Biodiesel it takes 2 minutes and 7 sec to close the spray can  the same.


50/50 raw rape oil / diesel  about 2 minutes and 7 sec.

Raw rape oil +16DgC about  5 minutes.
 It is too  thick to run in an engine.

 Fryer oil    +16 Dg C to thick for test.





You can run the diesel engine with many differents way.  Test of viscosity:

   Mix  raw rape-oil/ diesel oil 50/50 the same viscosity as diesel oil.  Test: 2 minutes 7 sec.
Buy cooking oil in a department store  and mix with diesel. or make raw rape oil in a
    Oilpress:  http://www.rapsolja.se/type55.htm

2    Warm up raw rape-oil from oilpress to +50 to +70 Dg C  the same viscosity as diesel oil with converter
      Test: 2 minutes 7 sec.   http://www.rapsolja.se/drive_your_diesel.htm

3    Make Bodiesel from oilpress in a tank the same viscosity as diesel oil
      Test 2 minutes 7 sec.

4    Fryer oil +60 Dg C  same viscosity as biodiesel, dieseloil, and 50/50 raw oil /diesel oil.
     Test 2 minutes 15 sec.

5    Water  approx  same viscosity as diesel oil


Quality testing  ( from http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_vehicle.html#quality )

Wash-test with unwashed biodiesel -- left, after a violent 10-second shaking; right, biodiesel and water separated cleanly within minutes.

This is the most useful all-round test, and it's very simple: Put 150 ml of unwashed biodiesel (settled for 12 hours or more, with the glycerine layer removed) in a half-litre glass jar. Add 150 ml of water, screw the lid on tight and shake it up and down violently for 10 seconds or more. Then let it settle. The biodiesel should separate from the water in half an hour or less, with amber biodiesel on top and milky water below. This is quality fuel, a completed product with minimal contaminants. Wash it and then use it with confidence.

But if it turns into something that looks like mayonaisse (emulsifies) and won't separate, or if it only separates very slowly, with a thick white layer sandwiched between water and biodiesel, it's not quality fuel and your process needs improvement. Either you've used too much catalyst and made soap (better titration), or a poor conversion has left you with mono- and diglycerides (try more methanol, better agitation, longer processing time, better temperature control), or both.

Whichever, you're headed for washing problems. Super-gentle washing techniques might avoid the problems, but you'll still be left with poor-quality fuel laced with contaminants that are bad for the engine and the fuel system.

If you have an emulsion any thicker than the normal "paper thin" interface layer between oil and water, the batch needs to be retreated. retreat as with virgin oil, but using only 10% methanol and the standard 3.5 g of lye per litre of oil.

Even bubble-washing is quite gentle, and it's worth repeating the test with some washed fuel -- it should separate from the water cleanly within a few minutes.

How the process works

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